Autumn transforms Haute-Savoie. The hillsides light up with reds, oranges, yellows and golds. Beeches, larches, sycamore maples: each species adds its own shade, and the show can last for several weeks if you know where to look. Autumn is one of the best times to hike in the Haute-Savoie mountains, and it's a season that many visitors overlook entirely.
When do the colours arrive?
Colour change starts at altitude and gradually descends. The first touches of yellow appear on the larches towards the end of September, at higher elevations. By October, the transformation moves to the mid-elevation slopes: this is where the beeches and maples put on their finest display. Down in the valleys, poplars and ash trees take over from late October through to mid-November.
The peak is usually around the second half of October, though it depends on that year's summer weather and the timing of the first frosts. A dry summer followed by a cold snap in early October speeds everything up noticeably.
Which trees to look for
Several species go through a striking autumn transformation in Haute-Savoie.
- The larch: the only conifer to lose its needles, it shifts from green to golden yellow and then to ochre before dropping. Spectacular on open alpine pastures, especially in the low afternoon light.
- The beech: on forested slopes, beeches turn a deep copper. They dominate in the Aravis massif and the Bauges. Their warm tones make them one of the most rewarding trees to seek out.
- The sycamore maple: common in clearings and at woodland edges, it produces bright yellows and oranges that glow even on overcast days.
- The ash: it yellows quickly and sheds early, but offers a few days of elegant pale yellow in the valley bottoms.
The most colourful areas
The Bauges and Lake Annecy
The Annecy and Bauges area is one of the finest in autumn. Dense beech forests cover the slopes above Lake Annecy, above villages like Entrevernes and Allèves. The views over the lake from the ridgelines are striking when the slopes are ablaze with colour and the water remains a deep blue below.
The Aravis-Bornes massif also has fine beech forests on its flanks, particularly on the west-facing slopes that catch the late afternoon sun. Less visited than the lake shore, it rewards those who prefer quiet trails and genuine autumn atmosphere.
The Arve valley
The wooded slopes of the Arve valley colour up generously from mid-October. The forested hillsides change at different rates depending on elevation, creating a natural gradient from the still-green upper ridges down to the copper-toned maples below.
Two walks worth doing in autumn
Among the routes that take on a completely different character in autumn, two deserve a particular mention.
- The Crêt de Chatillon hike, starting from Leschaux, passes through lovely beech woodland before opening out onto ridgelines with views over the Bauges and Lake Annecy. Autumn here is genuinely exceptional, and the route stays accessible even in October.
- La Montagne d'Entrevernes, starting from the village of the same name, climbs through dense forest that completely changes character in October. A good choice when snow has already closed the higher routes and you want a colourful, forested walk instead.
A few practical tips
Autumn in the mountains demands a bit of preparation. A few things to bear in mind before heading out.
- The days shorten quickly. By October, sunset comes before 6 pm. Start your walk early to avoid finishing in the dark.
- Wet leaves on the trail are very slippery. Good-grip footwear is essential.
- Weather can turn fast. Pack a windproof layer and an extra warm top, even if the morning feels mild.
- The best light is early morning and late afternoon. Midday light tends to be flat and produces less rewarding photos.
Autumn is often the forgotten season for hiking in Haute-Savoie, overshadowed by the busy summer months. Yet it offers something the summer cannot: quiet trails, sharp mountain air, and forests that seem to be preparing for winter in the most beautiful way possible. A good reason to lace up your boots well beyond the peak season.